Pizzeria Al 128 (Pizza quattro stagioni – split with Evan, prosecco)
For our first meal in Northern Italy, Nancy and John took us to this adorable pizza place just a couple blocks away from our B&B. After a two-hour train ride and another hour drive, we didn’t arrive in Vittorio Veneto until almost 9:00pm and figured that the restaurant would be nearly desolate. Silly us. I guess we forgot the late Italian dinner time so we found the restaurant to be quite crowded. Luckily, a large table was just leaving so we were able to feast before resting up for Venice the next day.
Palazzo Galletti B&B (red pepper frittata, Nutella and jam crepes, ham, baked apples, toast with various jams)
I cannot recommend Palazzo Galletti B&B enough. It’s in this old farmhouse that has recently been renovated into a B&B and the amount of detail that has gone into each room is impressive. We were in the “Sunset Room” or the green room since all the little accents from the shower curtain the coffee pot were green. Breakfasts were included and the owner’s mother, Elanora (the sweetest lady who spoke no English), put together quite a spread every morning. The baked apples came from her backyard garden and the eggs came fresh from the chickens she and her sister both own.
Tonolo (various Italian desserts)
Per the recommendation of one of John’s friends, we headed to Tonolo for a mid-morning pick-me-up (although I’m not sure how we were hungry after Elanora’s breakfast). This place had the biggest selection of homemade treats and was absolutely packed with people ordering at the counter and picking up orders made ahead of time. The hardest decision was trying to decide which of their tiny desserts to choose but once I took a bite of one of their canolos, I knew that a bad decision wasn’t possible there.
Trattoria alla Rivetta (crab gnocchi and calamari)
After being completed floored by the beauty of Piazza San Marco, we were somehow hungry again. We wandered away from the crowds of the main piazza, determined to find a restaurant that wasn’t a tourist trap, and I think we were quite successful. We originally stopped at Trattoria alla Rivetta since they had a nice window display of vegetables and Nancy is adorably obsessed with vegetables. The restaurant turned out to be filled with locals, offered delicious seafood, and even had a singing waiter.
Trattoria alla Cerva (bacalao and polenta)
I can’t believe I’m typing this but after eating all of the above, Evan and I managed to fit in one last snack at the bar down the street from our B&B. I’d like to think that we burned a lot of calories walking around Venice – we did walk over eight miles that day!
Another huge spread from Elanora and this meal included a homemade pecan torte. Think of the best pecan pie you’ve eaten at Thanksgiving, but better. Plus, we were joined that morning by Pablo, another Palazzo Galletti guest. He is an Italian artist and used to work in Orange County, California when he was in the wine industry. Since I used to live in Orange County for five years, it was fun to talk to him about the area and learn more about his work – it really is a small world.
Caffe Roma (ham and cheese plate)
After a full day exploring several small Northern Italian towns, it wasn’t until late afternoon that we started hunting for a lunch spot (I think we ever so slightly overdid it the day before). We settled on a place in Cison di Valmarino, which was a very small cafe that somehow managed to have three levels, all playing American soft rock.
Sempreque (arancino di riso – fried risotto ball)
Evan and I spent our last night in Vittorio Veneto in front of a roaring fireplace in this quaint wine bar. We talked over wine, shared an arancino, and kept an eye on the biggest grasshopper I’ve ever seen that was warming itself by the fire, too. Ah, small town entertainment.